Islands and Headlands
We got the gravel bikes out this morning and planned a loop of the island, we aimed for a beach with a good view of Fort Boyard, and kept going from there. There were a couple of bike routes set up by the local tourist board, so we mixed and mashed to stay off the roads as much as we could.
The view from Plage des Saumonards was beautiful, with golden soft sand (awful for bike shoes) and turquoise water glimmering in the sun. The beach is covered with mussel farms which were fully visible at low tide. We didn't fancy swimming here so we continued our ride around the island.
After leaving the beach, we cycled through the pine forest dunes as far as we could go until the cycle path took us further inland. We stopped at a local market in La Bree-les-Bairns and spied some fresh fruit on sale. It was there we realised that not everyone accepts card. Not a mistake we're willing to make again. Unfortunately it was too far to the nearest cash machine, so we had to pass up on the peaches this time.
We pulled in at Saint-Denis-d'Oleron marina for lunch, fed sparrows with our crumbs and people watched for a short time before the clouds following us caught up. Despite the hot weather, we still managed to get caught in a heavy downpour completely unprepared. The rain didn't last though, and we continued to the northern tip and around the lighthouse, Phare de Chassiron.
Once we'd done a lap of the lighthouse, it became apparent as to why the cycling felt so easy.. The headwind on the way back was horrendous, especially on the coast where there was nothing to shelter us. We headed further inland for respite, and stopped at a very unassuming bar called P'tit Rest for a very welcome coca cola from a glass bottle.
Continuing on, we changed out plan to head straight back, and headed for the historic salt farm again, just so we could go to the salt shop that was closed yesterday. I bought some salted caramel sauce that came in a squeezy bottle perfect for direct injection to the mouth. Dreamy.
7 hours and 50 miles later we got back to the van, but we weren't sticking around. we drove onwards towards Bordeaux, stopping for boulangerie and pizza on the way! We found a quiet spot in port du petit Chartron for the night and crashed out.